My First “Real” Couchsurfing Experience
Couchsurfing isn’t a new concept to those who, like me, constantly lust for travel, but never have thick wads of cash to spend. To those unfamiliar, Couchsurfing is a website connects “surfers” a.k.a. travelers to hosts in the country to be visited.
While I thought this would be an idea I would immediately gravitate towards, given my cheapskate-ness, I didn’t actually have my first “real” Couchsurfing experience until my 45th day of traveling, while I was in Luang Prabang, Laos.
Though I’ve met up with some Couchsurfers in Siem Reap, Chiang Mai and Luang Prabang, and got hooked up with Hariharalaya Retreat Centre thanks to a Couchsurfer, this would be my first time to spend the night at a host’s home.
![Ock Pop Tok: When Commerce Preserves CultureAugust 11 & 13, 2012 - Luang Prabang, Laos
Once in a while, I’ve come across an admirable brand or company on this trip through Cambodia, Thailand & Laos (so far), but none has left as indelible an impression as Ock Pop Tok, a progressive and principled textile-weaving company in Luang Prabang.
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As an admirer of both social enterprises and weaving traditions, it was only natural that I be interested in what English photographer Joanna Smith & Lao weaver Veomanee Duangdala have done with Ock Pop Tok since their humble beginnings in 2000.
Through the Fibre2Fabrics Gallery, an exhibit of Lao textiles at their flagship store in Ban Vat Nong, and the Village Weavers Project, wherein Ock Pop Tok artisans empower women in rural communities by transferring handicraft skills, Ock Pop Tok serves as a beacon of heritage preservation not only to the Lao community, but to travelers like myself who get inspired by the work they do.
It’s also particularly commendable when companies really highlight their artisans, and each scarf you see on this wall in their Ban Vat Nong flagship store has a tag indicating the weaver’s name, her picture, and her specialty or brief bio.
[Their second shop at Ban Vat Sene]
I don’t feel it’s enough to just visit the shops within the tourist area when the company gives you an opportunity to see the entire textile creation process at their workshop at the Living Crafts Centre (LCC), which you can take a 10 to 15-minute tuk-tuk ride to from either of their shops within the heart of Luang Prabang.
Learning the process
Having found an ever-increasing interest in textiles and weaving after my visit to Easter Weaving in Baguio and Artisans d’Angkor in Siem Reap, it was obvious that I would jump on this chance to learn more about it in Laos. I enjoyed my time at the LCC and even took two trips down there, and I was glad I made a second trip because it allowed me to talk to more people from Ock Pop Tok. Let me take you through an abbreviated virtual walking tour. :)
Upon my arrival at LCC, I was greeted by Doua who walked me through the processes of textile-making. Ock Pop Tok makes use of various natural dyes showcased here, and you will also see some plants dotting the centre with labels indicating what colour dyes these plants create.
I was fortunate enough to walk in on an English traveler taking a dye class as well, and here, you can see the use of a plant whose name is now forgotten, but reminded me a lot of Philippine atsuete.
[Boiling the dye and textile]
I also walked in on a Japanese traveler taking a 3-day weaving class, and here, you can see her preparing her thread for her loom.
Different textile techniques
Of course, nothing beats watching the Ock Pop Tok artisans at work, and at the centre, you’ll be able to see a number of techniques or weaving styles being practiced.
First, there is the traditional loom that I feel most of us are familiar which can be used for a variety of weaving styles. I was told that that the pattern hanging from above is the master pattern, which the weaver uses as a guide. I think I have to watch them a LOT longer to really understand how it happens though because I really couldn’t comprehend how the intricate fabrics were created from that thread skeleton.
One of the techniques I could fathom was the Hmong Batik technique, but not any less amazing just because it was easier to understand. The Hmong Batik artisan usually draws a pattern onto hemp fabric using a mixture of beeswax heated on coal.
The entire fabric is then dyed, usually indigo, and then boiled to remove the wax and reveal the negative imprint of the pattern.
But among the most mind-blowing of techniques (for me) would be Katu weaving, which integrates beads into the fabric, and uses a more primitive-looking (read: really extra challenging-looking) implement to put it all together.
The weaver slides a spool of thread, like weavers at the bigger looms do, except here, she has to count threads and insert beads one at a time while anchoring the end of the loom at her feet with her legs outstretched. I think you can imagine that this can really strain one’s legs.
I also had the unique pleasure of talking to young Katu weaver Mone for an hour or two about her weaving beginnings and Ock Pop Tok, and how grateful she is to them for giving her this opportunity and means of livelihood. I also enjoyed helping her out with her English. :)
[The showroom at LCC]
[The Silk Road Cafe, where you can hang out to eat or drink after going around the LCC]
[This was my chosen spot facing the Mekong River]
View more Ock Pop Tok pictures here.
Taking ideas from travel
Travel is learning. It is a knowledge and culture exchange. Having been to Ock Pop Tok, and briefly talking to Joanna, Lear, Ruddy, and Mone, has made me feel inspired (and a little bit daunted at the same time) to do what I can to help preserve the rich textile traditions of the Philippines as well.
Not unlike Laos, weaving styles vary according to the region. My trip to Easter Weaving only showcased some of the traditions of the Cordillera region in Northern Luzon, but there is so much more textile diversity to discover in many other parts of the country. However, unlike in Laos, young Filipinas don’t wear as much of our indigenous textiles as the young Lao women do.
There has been a movement to generate more awareness, from people in the government and business sector, with companies like Vesti and Anthill Fabric Gallery, but of more vital importance is the mindful consumer who will continue to patronize these tapestry tales of our culture and keep the industry, and ultimately our traditions, alive.
Spooling nationalism, Jen
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Ock Pop Tok: When Commerce Preserves Culture
August 11 & 13, 2012 - Luang Prabang, Laos
Once in a while, I’ve come across an admirable brand or company on this trip through Cambodia, Thailand & Laos (so far), but none has left as indelible an impression as Ock Pop Tok, a progressive and principled textile-weaving company in Luang Prabang.
![Utopia in Luang Prabang, LaosAugust 2012 - Luang Prabang, Laos
Tucked away somewhere inside the small and narrow streets from Phomma That Road is this dreamy, almost surreal, hidden (yet popular) Eden in Luang Prabang aptly called Utopia, a peaceful and inviting environment for everyone, whether you’re into yoga, reading, writing, having alone time, enjoying good food and drinks, or hanging out with friends and playing board games.
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At 7:30 a.m., you can join a yoga class c/o Luang Prabang Yoga in the morning. for 30,000 kip ~ $3.75. set against this beautiful backdrop of the Nam Khan River.
I had gotten in touch with yoga teacher Julie initially, but took a class under Khoun. View their profiles here, and see their class schedules here.
After yoga, you can chill out with a fruit shake (I highly recommend the Saffron Robe [15,000kip ~ $1.88] - mango tamarind shake with a touch of cinnamon — it’s as good as it sounds, maybe even better) and read a book here.
Or enjoy your breakfast over here.
Come back again at dinner time, and Utopia looks quite different but still as chill and laid back. So glad Yasuko and some new friends wanted to go to Utopia too (because I don’t think I’d want to come back at night alone, just because that’s a bit sad :P).
[By the deck / lounge area after enjoying our dinner — I had a delicious tofu green curry! :) Sorry, food blogger instincts aren’t very strong in me so I didn’t really take a good photo before digging in.]
[At the main area near the entrance]
See more Utopia pics here, and maybe consider that ooooh heaven is a place on Earth. :D
Yoga in the morning, delicious food for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and cocktails, and BOARD GAMES (♥) in this laid back hangout spot will make you want to come back again and hang out even longer. I’d have hung out here more often if I had more money too. :P Definitely one of the places you’d want to visit while in Luang Prabang.
Jen
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Utopia in Luang Prabang, Laos
August 2012 - Luang Prabang, Laos
Tucked away somewhere inside the small and narrow streets from Phomma That Road is this dreamy, almost surreal, hidden (yet popular) Eden in Luang Prabang aptly called Utopia, a peaceful and inviting environment for everyone, whether you’re into yoga, reading, writing, having alone time, enjoying good food and drinks, or hanging out with friends and playing board games.
![Languor in Luang Prabang, LaosAugust 9-15, 2012
Languor seems to be a big theme in my travel style, as exceptionally showcased through my days of “doing nothing” in Pai, and again, in Luang Prabang.
I find that some of my favorite places are those in which you can really just while away by hanging out at more affordable neighborhood cafes with wi-fi or bookshops with friendly and accommodating owners, walking along streets with nostalgic charm, visiting the occasional exhibit/museum, watching the sunset by the Mekong River, and partake of food from the night market.
Read the rest of this post for some cheapskate tips and lazy snaps c/o this lethargic traveler. :P
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Hanging Out
One of my favorite places to hang out was the Arthouse Cafe a.k.a. River Loft Restaurant (it’s slowly transitioning its name to the latter), for its laid back ambiance, delicious vegetarian-friendly Orlaam, a uniquely Lao dish for only 10,000 kip ($1.25 or P50), and its bottomless coffee and lemonade and iced tea, also only for 10,000 kip!
View more pictures of River Loft / Arthouse here.
Wi-fi can be painfully slow at times, but it didn’t keep me from coming back and staying the whole afternoon again. :)
Another place I liked to hang out was Yensabai Books & Art with Lao Couchsurfing friend Sith.
You can buy, exchange or borrow books there, share a cup of local organic coffee, and maybe even take a stencil class and learn how to make one of these uh-mazing pieces yourself. :)
Walking around aimlessly
This is probably my favorite activity to do when arriving in a small town: walk around with no end in mind other than to get to know a place “organically” and just be pleasantly surprised by the things I eventually stumble upon, like the Kopnoi / Stay Another Day Exhibit, Utopia, random cafes and shops, like Ock Pop Tok, and beautifully aged / tastefully restored buildings or homes.
[UNESCO office building, proof of Luang Prabang as a rich heritage site]
Sunset meditation
Once your legs have gotten tired from your aimless walking, it’s nice to take a break in with a 5,000 kip fruit shake ($0.63 ~ P25) to watch the sunset along the banks of the Mekong River. Not all riverside restos are created equal, so if you want to get bang for buck with an unobstructed view, look for the resto across the Khem Khoung (?) Guesthouse, if I remember correctly. :)
In Luang Prabang, and again later in Vientiane, I find that nothing soothes the tired soul, lifts the spirits, and gives a renewed sense of awe in the world as simply watching the sunset — a good hour of undisturbed appreciation for your life and the blessings in it. :)
Cheap eats on the street
Cap off the day with a 10,000 kip meal at the night market. Choose from papaya salad and spring rolls, or get a plateful of vegetarian dishes along this little street tucked away near the entrance of the night market (after all the fruit shakes on the left, before the bakery selling various bread outside).
[Spring rolls (1,000/pc) and papaya salad — you can haggle papaya salad for 8,000 kip even if they quote you 10,000, at least with the vendor I tried. :)]
So there you have it folks. A day of nothing much, but my favorite types of days. :)
View more Luang Prabang pictures here.
Leaving Laos,Jen
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Languor in Luang Prabang, Laos
August 9-15, 2012
Languor seems to be a big theme in my travel style, as exceptionally showcased through my days of “doing nothing” in Pai, and again, in Luang Prabang.
I find that some of my favorite places are those in which you can really just while away by hanging out at more affordable neighborhood cafes with wi-fi or bookshops with friendly and accommodating owners, walking along streets with nostalgic charm, visiting the occasional exhibit/museum, watching the sunset by the Mekong River, and partake of food from the night market.
Read the rest of this post for some cheapskate tips and lazy snaps c/o this lethargic traveler. :P
![My First Recommended To-Do in Luang Prabang:Slow down, Stay Another DayAugust 9, 2012 - Luang Prabang, Laos
When traveling, it’s so easy for tourists to cram “all” possible activities in a matter of 2-3 days. The perhaps not all-too-mainstream Stay Another Day Exhibit on the second floor of Kopnoi in Luang Prabang is one of those things that I recommend travelers to visit and learn from on their first day in Luang Prabang.
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It gives visitors a greater appreciation for the Laos by shedding some light on cultural practices, and how to respect them…
…shares the importance of sustaining local industries…
…and they also have exhibitions on the Environment (nature activities) and Community (ethnicity groups), which emphasize Laos’ richness in natural surroundings and heritage, and remind us to give those their due importance and respect, and to be mindful travelers, in that we support responsible tourist activities.
It also simply reminds us to maybe do as the Luang Prabangers do, and slow down, and maybe stay another day, or week, with the whimsical What Should I Do Today? wheel. :)
At the ground floor is a shop that showcases traditional Lao handicrafts, as well as works by distinct Lao artists.
They also have really approachable staff I paid repeated visits to throughout my stay. :) They look shy here, but they’re really friendly! (Forgot to say goodbye though :|)
View more Kopnoi / Stay Another Day pictures here.
Having seen this exhibit makes me feel like the Philippines is lacking in these sorts of initiatives, and I really hope that in the future, I can be part of a movement that encourages slow AND responsible travel within the Philippines. If you are reading this still, and have any leads on potential people I can help or collaborate with on such a project, do let me know. :)
Inspired to do the same for her country,Jen
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My First Recommended To-Do in Luang Prabang:
Slow down, Stay Another Day
August 9, 2012 - Luang Prabang, Laos
When traveling, it’s so easy for tourists to cram “all” possible activities in a matter of 2-3 days. The perhaps not all-too-mainstream Stay Another Day Exhibit on the second floor of Kopnoi in Luang Prabang is one of those things that I recommend travelers to visit and learn from on their first day in Luang Prabang.
![“Up” and About: An Age-defying Love & Adventure Story :)
On the long bus ride from Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang, I also couldn’t help but notice the couple seated in front of me through the gap between their seats. I’m a sucker for old couples, so I was really curious about their story.
When we got off the bus and boarded a tuk-tuk to the centre of Luang Prabang, I was fortunate enough to be in the same tuk-tuk as they were in. My Luang Prabang travel-mates, Yasuko, Mako, Jenney and I then learned that they’ve been traveling for 10 years now, with their sailboat. :) SOBRANG SWEET.
I knew at that moment I had to take their picture and get their full names and email address. I knew I’d have to write about them.
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When we got to town, we parted ways because we couldn’t all be booked at the same guest house. But I really hoped to meet them again in Luang Prabang. With Luang Prabang seeming like the prime example of “It’s A Small World”, we bumped into them on our trip to the weee!-inducing Tat Kuang Si.
There I sealed a deal to meet with them as I felt that there was so much more I wanted to know about their adventure. :)
Pierre and Catherine Neidhart have known each other for 20 years now, and let’s just say that Catherine is 50-something, and Pierre is 60-something, and they only got married 10 years ago, for practical reasons, just before they started traveling.
They travel with their sailboat which they park at docks or drop anchor at designated points, then either just stay around the area or travel by land to relatively nearby cities/towns or countries. :)
I can’t even really fathom the boat life, but they sail their boat with just the two of them, with each one having to keep night watches to make sure that they are on course and that they don’t crash into anything (cliff/boat/etc). There was a lot more I wanted to ask, but kept myself from prying too much as it was only our first time hanging out. :P
Nonetheless, with what they shared, it sounds like a wonderful life, and Pierre and Catherine’s similarly leisurely approach to traveling as mine is refreshing especially when meeting travelers who usually dedicate no more than 3 days per destination.
[Sharing Beerlaos and street food with the Neidharts :)]
Stupidly had my camera on the wrong setting so Catherine’s face was always blurred. And I think she got tired of all the pictures. :P
There’s no expressing how happy I was to spend time with Pierre and Catherine. It was simply precious…like having the comfort of parents around sans any potential nagging. There’s so much more I wish to know about their story, and one evening with them simply isn’t enough to hear all about their sailboat adventures, so I hope one day, the sea pushes them my way, and I can be a part of some of their future stories too. :)
Hugs to you, Pierre and Catherine!
Big grin on her face,Jen :D
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“Up” and About: An Age-defying Love & Adventure Story :)
On the long bus ride from Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang, I also couldn’t help but notice the couple seated in front of me through the gap between their seats. I’m a sucker for old couples, so I was really curious about their story.
When we got off the bus and boarded a tuk-tuk to the centre of Luang Prabang, I was fortunate enough to be in the same tuk-tuk as they were in. My Luang Prabang travel-mates, Yasuko, Mako, Jenney and I then learned that they’ve been traveling for 10 years now, with their sailboat. :) SOBRANG SWEET.
I knew at that moment I had to take their picture and get their full names and email address. I knew I’d have to write about them.
Tat Kuang Si Waterfalls and Bear Sanctuary
August 8, 2012 - Luang Prabang, Laos
The great thing about not really knowing what a place has to offer but just going anyway is the awe when you finally see / experience them.
Tat Kuang Si is among the most popular tourist activities in Luang Prabang, and rightly so. It was my favorite excursion / touristy thing to do here. Even with the jaw-dropping waterfalls in Iligan, this was uh-mazing, with its lush surroundings, clear pools, and the great Kuang Si waterfall drop when you climb further up.
![Impromptu Wet Pak Ou Cave “Adventure”August 7, 2012 - Luang Prabang, Laos
The rain wasn’t very cooperative at all in the first few days of my stay here in Luang Prabang, though it was significantly better than the weather situation in Manila at the time.
Nonetheless, Yasuko, and Jenney and Mako (who we met on the bus from Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang) and I braved the rain and went out to explore what we could in the rain.
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We first walked a bit around town, checked out some temples:
Hung out at a cafe..
Checked out yet another temple (which we had to pay 20,000 kip for…which I feel was unwarranted, perhaps because I do not know of its more profound significance).
We then walked toward the river, in hopes of maybe finding a boat to take us to Pak Ou Cave. There, we bumped into 3 Dutch girls by the “boat station” and hopped onto a slow boat for 70,000 kip / person.
It was late in the day so we needed to ride a speedboat half the way to get there and back before dark, and we agreed.
We failed to ask if the speedboat was covered, and we hadn’t really planned on this at all, so no one else had a raincoat but me, none of us were in bikinis, nor did we have “wet bags” for our gear / valuables. So we were soaked (I’m not sure if it was by the rain or the river water, but it was all good fun (for a while…going back wasn’t so fun anymore and we were all just quiet as the rain pelted on our bodies).
And while there may be some truth to what guidebooks say about the ride to the cave being nicer / more fun than the cave itself, it was still worthwhile to go to due to the sheer number of buddha figurines.
I found out days after (again due to poor planning / research), that we could’ve dropped by a whiskey and/or weaving village either before or after going to the cave. Harhar.
No regrets about having the non-plan plan though. But thank you to Jenney for her Type A-ness and diligence in research. :)
Plan-rider,Jen
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Impromptu Wet Pak Ou Cave “Adventure”
August 7, 2012 - Luang Prabang, Laos
The rain wasn’t very cooperative at all in the first few days of my stay here in Luang Prabang, though it was significantly better than the weather situation in Manila at the time.
Nonetheless, Yasuko, and Jenney and Mako (who we met on the bus from Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang) and I braved the rain and went out to explore what we could in the rain.
